Cutting Boards 101: What is the Best Cutting Board for Your Knives and Cutting Techniques?

Every prep session begins at the cutting board. A great knife can't perform properly if the surface underneath is too hard, too soft, or poorly maintained.

The harder the board, the more wear it puts on the sharpened edge. Ultra-hard cutting boards with funky designs made from exotic woods, or cheap plastic boards available at any grocery store, can dull a knife quickly. Even knives that are designed to withstand a harder cutting board, made with more forgiving, softer steel, will drastically increase the need to sharpen your knife regularly.

Regardless of the knife, specific cutting techniques can wear out a board more quickly than others. Pivoting motions, such as rock and cross chopping, can damage a softer Japanese cutting board. In contrast, a hard cutting board used with the same techniques will last forever, but may crack, fracture, or chip the edge of a higher Rockwell Japanese blade.

Every cutting board requires some degree of maintenance. Whether it's applying mineral oil to a wooden board every month or two, storing boards properly to prevent warping, or knowing when to discard the synthetic board that's flaking off pieces of plastic into your minced garlic, understanding how to care for your board is essential.

Finding the right balance is crucial when selecting the best cutting board. By the end of this blog, you might as well call yourself a cutting board guru, or at least feel super confident in what you decide to add to your kitchen.

The Janka scale is the standard measure of wood hardness. It tests the amount of  pounds-force (lbf) required to press a 0.444-inch steel ball halfway into the wood's surface.

The higher the lbf, the harder the wood.

Based on our experience, the sweet spot for cutting boards falls in the  500-1500 lbf range. At 500 lbf, a wood cutting board is very soft and ideal for higher Rockwell Japanese knives, which are primarily used for tap and push chopping and slicing. 

Wood boards around the  1,000 lbf mark are suitable for the majority of knives, particularly those with a Rockwell hardness of under 63. 

Cutting boards that can withstand around  1,500 lbf should only be used with softer steel German or Western-style knives, which typically have a Rockwell hardness of 58-60.

Can you use a super high Rockwell Japanese knife on a harder cutting board? Yes, you can, with a delicate touch and proper technique. Can you use a softer steel dual-purpose Chinese Cleaver coming in at a 56 Rockwell on a super soft board? Absolutely, but again, technique and force matter, not to protect the knife, but to help the board last a long time.

When it comes to wood boards, how the board is constructed matters almost as much as the species of wood itself.

Edge-Grain:

These boards are made by aligning long strips of wood side by side, usually from left to right on a cutting board. The cutting surface exposes the long fibers of the wood, which means your knife is slicing against the grain. This style is generally lighter and more affordable. Cut marks are more visible, and knives tend to dull more quickly compared to end-grain boards made from the same wood.

End-Grain:

End-grain boards are built like a checkerboard, with the wood fibers standing vertically. Instead of cutting against the fibers, your knife is sliding between separate fibers (think of a knife going into the hairs of a paintbrush). The fibers separate slightly under pressure and then "self-heal" once washed with hot water. This design is far gentler on knife edges, hides cut marks better, and can last for decades. The trade-off: end-grain boards are heavier, more expensive, and require consistent care.

The Janka rating of, say, black walnut, remains the same regardless of the grain pattern. But if you want the best combination of performance and longevity, end-grain boards are considered the gold standard.

Best for High Rockwell Japanese Knives: 

• Paulownia (Kiri): ~300 lbf. Extremely light, used in Japan for ease of handling. Knife-friendly but prone to dents. Rare in U.S. kitchens.
• Basswood: 410 lbf. Nice and soft, not commonly used.
• Hinoki (Japanese Cypress): 510–600 lbf. A traditional Japanese cutting board that is renowned for its gentle touch on knives and natural antimicrobial properties. It may show wear quickly if used with too much force. Hinoki is a C+M fan favorite for Japanese knives.
• Larch: 830–1,000 lbf. Balanced and durable, especially in end-grain construction. Perfect for most knives, even those with a much higher Rockwell if used properly. 

Great for most moderately high Rockwell knives (60-63 HRC) and any softer steel knives.

• Honduran Mahogany: 800–900 lbf. Occasionally used in boards, but not super common. 
• Cherry – 995 lbf. Warm tones, gentle on knives, moderate durability.
• Black Walnut: 1,010 lbf. A U.S. classic—dark, rich color, balanced hardness, excellent all-around choice. (show end-grain walnut boards)
• Beech: 1,300 lbf. Widely used, affordable, tight-grained, and durable. Think Wusthof, Zwilling, and Global.
• White Oak: 1,350 lbf. You can feel the strength of a white oak board with your bare hands. The sound of a knife hitting white oak is very distinct and dense.
• Maple (Hard/Sugar Maple): 1,450 lbf. The North American gold standard for butcher blocks. Balanced, reliable, and widely available.

We do NOT recommend the following wood boards for any knife:

• Teak: 1,070 lbf. Naturally oily and water-resistant, but a little harsher on edges due to the high silica content. The Janka rating is somewhat misleading for this type of wood, as we've had many people damage softer steel knives due to the texture of teak wood.
• Bamboo: 1,380–1,600 lbf. Technically, it's a grass, very hard and eco-friendly, but super tough on knives. You'll find bamboo boards everywhere, and they might as well be made from glass.
• Acacia: 1,750 lbf. Dense, attractive, and durable, but more punishing on knife edges.
• Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) – 2,350 lbf. Beautiful but overkill for cutting boards. Extremely tough on knives.
• Bubinga: 2,410 lbf. Fun to say, exotic and decorative, often used for accents. Too hard for daily knife work. Better for knife handles.

Japan has long valued knives, which is why soft woods like hinoki are staples in the country's culinary culture. But modern Japanese makers have also developed synthetic boards that mimic the feel of wood while offering the sanitation and durability of modern materials.

Hasegawa Pro PE

The Pro PE cutting board has a textured polyethylene surface with a composite wood core. The PE surface is comparable to hinoki wood in terms of hardness. It's super lightweight due to the wood core, making cleaning and maneuvering a breeze. NSF-certified and dishwasher-safe, but it's also very easy to hand-wash.

The Pro PE is primarily designed for tap and push chopping, and slicing. It can easily handle shallow rock chops with a light touch. However, if you mince five bunches of cilantro with a fast pivoting cross chop, you'll likely see some damage.

Hasegawa Pro Soft

The premium model in the Hasegawa lineup. Its soft, PE rubber-like surface is dense and grippy, making it ideal for slicing raw and cooked proteins, as well as any other ingredient that requires stability on a cutting board. 

The Pro Soft is designed for slicing, but can handle the occasional shallow tap or push chop. However, when pushing or tapping into the surface, the board literally "grips" ahold of your knife and stops it in its tracks, which is why it's best for slicing in a pulling method. Think of slicing sashimi or a delicate terrine. It's a board designed for specific tasks, not everyday prep.

To care for and restore Hasegawa cutting boards, you can use a specialized scraper or a diluted bleach solution to remove discoloration, stains, and gouges. Proper sanding with a scraper helps resurface the board while maintaining its grippy texture. 

Asahi Rubber Cutting Boards

Made from a dense synthetic rubber-resin composite, Asahi boards are a staple in sushi shops across Japan. They're gentle on knives, extremely durable, and hygienic. 

Like the Hasegawa Pro Soft, Asahi boards are designed specifically with professional knife work in mind. They are best for slicing, or the occasional delicate tap or push chop. Asahi boards are not dishwasher safe like the Hasegawa boards.

Disclaimers: 

1) These super-soft PE and rubber boards are becoming trendy in the United States, but the reality is that very few people actually need them. They are designed for specific tasks, rather than for particular knives. High Rockwell Japanese knives in the 63-66+ range will perform just fine on a Hinoki or Larch board with the right touch, allowing you to use them for everyday prep.

2) Do not put hot fatty/oily proteins on rubber boards; they will stain.

The standard white NSF commercial board, typically made from HDPE, is practical but not very knife-friendly. These boards are durable, affordable, dishwasher-safe, and NSF-certified, making them a staple in commercial kitchens.

Compared to wood and Japanese synthetics, standard plastic boards feel much harder under the knife, like cutting on maple or white oak, without the "give" that wooden boards have to preserve edge sharpness.

Suppose you're working in a commercial kitchen and are forced to use one of these boards. In that case, we recommend using a softer Rockwell knife, such as a Wusthof, Zwilling, or Global. However, with some finesse and regular honing and sharpening, a 60-61 Rockwell knife will perform well; try to avoid excessive pivoting motions.

Also, please avoid using glass and titanium cutting boards. They are great for serving apps and finger foods on, but never put a knife on them.

A cutting board is an investment, and a little maintenance goes a long way toward keeping it in peak condition.

Washing

Always hand-wash wood boards. A frothy soap with degreasing and antibacterial properties is most effective. Rinse thoroughly and dry upright. Then, store flat or vertically, never at an angle, as this can lead to warping. Some synthetics, including Hasegawa and Asahi, are technically dishwasher safe; however, hand washing is still recommended for optimal longevity.

Oiling and Conditioning

Wood boards should be oiled every month or two to prevent drying and cracking. Food-grade mineral oil or Larch Wood Conditioner are excellent options. Apply generously, let the board rest overnight, and then gently wash it before use. Regular oiling keeps the board looking rich while maintaining its resistance to moisture. 

Special Care for Synthetics

Certain synthetic boards, such as the  Hasegawa Pro PE, can be resurfaced with the Hasegawa scraper. This tool is designed to carefully shave down the surface, leveling out grooves and refreshing the board. After scraping, wash thoroughly according to the manufacturer's instructions to ensure safe use.

With the right care routine, a high-quality cutting board will not only last for years but will also help your knives perform at their best.

At Cutlery and More, we offer a carefully curated selection of cutting boards that strike a balance between performance, durability, and tradition. Among them:

• Larch Wood End-Grain Boards – Balanced hardness, long-lasting, and visually striking.
• Hinoki Boards – Lightweight, knife-friendly, and rooted in Japanese culinary tradition.
• Hasegawa Pro PE and Pro Soft Boards – Innovative Japanese synthetics that protect knives while remaining sanitary.
• Asahi Rubber Boards – A professional standard in sushi kitchens worldwide.

These represent some of the best options available today, whether you're a professional chef or a passionate home cook.

Depending on when you read this blog, you may find a few random boards on the shop page that we're introducing or received as a limited supply to test the waters and see how our customers enjoy them. Regardless of the board you're considering, you now know how to select the best one for your knives and cutting technique.

The best cutting board isn't just about looks; it's about protecting your knives, enjoying prep sessions, and matching your preferred cutting style.

When considering your next cutting board, you should consider three simple things.

1. What is the Rockwell range of the knives you use the most?
2. Do you primarily tap and push chop, or are you a consistent rock chopper?
3. Do you prefer natural wood that requires occasional oil massages, or a synthetic board that's effortless to maintain?

Whichever board you decide to get next, you now know exactly how to use and maintain it!